Jared Leto announced his new brand, sharing, “I’ve never been really interested in beauty products. But I’m interested in the idea of taking care of ourselves in the most natural way possible.”
Welcome to Artist Spotlight #97 series on my blog.
Jared Letois entering the House of Beauty.
The 50-year-old is credited with unlocking the secret to eternal youth, as his wrinkle-free skin has remained an unsolved mystery for years. But the House of Gucci star is ready to finally share his secrets with the launch of his new beauty brand.
On Oct. 18, Jared introduced Twentynine Palms, an 11-piece line that offers skincare, body care and hair care products. And while the actor maintains he’s no beauty expert, he knows a thing or two about prioritizing wellness.
“I know I’m a student here, but I think that’s the best place to be,” he told Vogue. “I’ve never been really interested in beauty products. But I’m interested in the idea of taking care of ourselves in the most natural way possible.”
Thirty Seconds to Mars frontman—whose brand is named after the California town near the Joshua Tree National Park—has enlisted ingredients inspired by mother nature, including prickly pear extract and kaolin powder.
“Because of this challenging, unforgiving environment,” Jared said, “these ingredients have to be incredibly resilient to survive.“
Jared’s foray into the beauty space comes eight months after he opened up to Men’s Health about his youthful appearance.
“People started talking about my age and that sort of thing 10 years ago,” the Oscar winner said in March. “As you get older, people start saying, ‘Ah, you’re still young.’ And then there’s this age where they go, ‘Really?‘”
And while he understood that everyone wants to know his skincare secrets, he teased that he was going to keep everybody guessing. As he put it, “At the end of the day, it doesn’t really matter.”
But it turns out, he’s ready to share a glimpse into his routine.
“I Love What Gwyneth Has Done With Goop”: Brad Pitt Unveils His Genderless Skincare Line Exclusively To Vogue.
Welcome to Artist Spotlight #93 series on my blog.
Brad Pitt has not read the beauty tutorial memo. Vogue dives 25 minutes into an exclusive interview with the actor, producer, philanthropist, wine producer, and newly-minted skincare brand founder at Château Miraval, the sprawling property and vineyard in the South of France that Pitt bought with his ex-wife Angelina Jolie in 2012, and after a few quick-fire questions they arrive at the inevitable part of any skincare founder interview: “What’s your regimen?”, with a certain amount of trepidation. “Can we have a product demonstration?”
Pitt baulks, smiling. “I’m not doing that!”
“Maybe just talk about how your routine has evolved, then? Just don’t make it too QVC,” Vogue suggests to the Academy Award-winner, hoping he might warm to the idea of applying face creams while being filmed.
“I wouldn’t know how to do that, unless it was a comedy,” Pitt says, laughing. “Actually, Sandy [Sandra Bullock] and I did once try to develop a whole idea of a husband and wife team, who were QVC’s most successful salespeople, but we’re getting a divorce, we hate each other, and we’re taking it out on air as we sell things… That’s as far as we got.”
While the world never got the Pitt-Bullock rom-com it deserves, the 58-year-old isgiving us Le Domaine, a science-meets-nature line of genderless skin care essentials that he developed in partnership with the Perrin family, the renowned Château Beaucastel vintners who are also Pitt’s partners in the fan-favourite Château Miraval Côtes de Provence Rose.
While he made a conscious decision not to front the brand as the “face” of Le Domaine (there will be no campaign portraits, no Brad on TikTok, and very few interviews after this one), Pitt has been as hands-on as it gets with its concept and development, which is based around the familiar story of grape-based antioxidants that has long been mined by more established brands. But Le Domaine has approached the science in its own way, appointing one of the world’s leading wine and human health specialists, University of Bordeaux Professor of Oenology Pierre-Louis Teissedre, to determine which of the 13 grape varieties the Perrin family grows on their estates in Provence had the most relevant antioxidant properties.
That research began over 15 years ago, and may have resulted in the next big thing in skincare: GSM10, an exclusive molecule in Le Domaine’s Serum, Cream, Fluid Cream and Cleansing Emulsion that combines potent properties from the seeds of Grenache grapes with the seeds and skin of Syrah and Mourvedre grapes. It serves as a powerful antidote to oxidative stress, which can break down collagen and contribute to the myriad physical signs of ageing. Professor Nicolas Lévy, a leading scientist in progeria – an extremely rare genetic disorder that speeds up ageing in small children – provided additional insights for the project. Having identified the way progeria affects the natural ageing process, he developed ProGr3 – Le Domaine’s other patented active ingredient – which is derived from grapevine tendril resveratrol, and aims to keep skin cells healthier, longer.
Finally, there’s the magical nature of Miraval’s soil itself – the terroir, as it’s called by oenologists when discussing the growing conditions unique to specific grapevines. In this case: terrace upon terrace of olive trees; miles and miles of otherworldly lichen-encrusted woodland; and air so thick with lavender that at one point one seriously wonders if it’s being artificially pumped in. No pesticides are used at Miraval, where all farming is done biodynamically. The clay and limestone-rich soil is ploughed and the vines aren’t irrigated, which encourages their roots to reach deep down into the ground for moisture. The deeper the roots grow, the better their interaction with the soil, which creates that much sought-after complexity in Miraval’s grapes, as well as in the olive oil that’s produced on the property, the combination of which makes up the base of the 96% natural, vegan and sustainable line. Refillable bottles are punctuated by a clever packaging detail: wooden caps recycled from old wine casks.
Later, while stuck at the EasyJet terminal in Marseille with Teissedre, he tells Vogue that the research into this project has been incredible, even by his standards. And that’s something Pitt is more than happy to be a part of. “Through the ages, Château Miraval has always been this hub of creativity, it has so many places within it where you want to sit and think and expand and explore, and make beautiful things,” he says from one such vantage point in the well-appointed outdoor living area, which overlooks a football pitch he created for his family. That’s not necessarily reason enough to get into what is already a very saturated skincare market, Pitt concedes. But Le Domaine’s efficacy just might be. “I know there are new products nearly every day that people are trying to launch, but if I hadn’t seen a real difference visually in my skin, we wouldn’t have bothered.”
Here, Pitt reveals his “little, simple regimen”, how Gwyneth Paltrow influenced his early skincare habits, and why self-love just may be the best secret to ageing well.
How did the Le Domaine project come about?
Brad Pitt: We had been talking about it for so long I don’t remember now how it originally started. I remember reading about the health properties of grape skins as something we wanted to investigate. But the initial idea, right from the beginning, comes back to this place. It’s just steeped in creativity and it’s so fertile. We make olive oil, truffles and honey here. Reinforced concrete began here. Reinforced concrete! That’s insane! In the 1840s Joseph-Louis Lambot invented ferro-cement, a precursor to reinforced concrete, and made a concrete boat that was eventually pulled out of the pond here and now resides in a museum in Brignoles. We had some pillars – test pillars – up in the courtyard. He went on to make the first two buildings in reinforced concrete, and now of course everything is built that way. It’s pretty extraordinary.
And was skincare meant to be a part of this creativity? Had you been secretly thinking all this time, “I must have a skincare brand?”
No, and truthfully we wouldn’t have done it unless we felt there was something valid here, something original, something that worked. I get sent stuff all the time and… ugh. It’s just all the same for me. But this last year we have been testing Le Domaine and I was really surprised by the results, and that for me, made it worth going forward.
Have you always had a good skincare routine?
[Very long pause]. No.
I was so sure you were going to say yes, because one imagines you would be well looked-after…
Well, when I’m looked after, I do [have a good skincare routine]. I just want to keep it simple, you know what I mean? That said, I’m actually thorough now. I’ve been whipped into shape by my dear make-up artist friend – we started together 30 years ago – Jean Black. She is pretty special. So whenever we’re on a film she keeps me healthy, and then she’s like, “try this”, and, “try that”.
You look like you have great skin anyway. I can’t imagine it takes much!
No, not really, I don’t, but now… I mean I have my little, simple regimen.
So, what do you do? Gua Sha?
I don’t even know what that is.
Facials?
Rarely. I get antsy.
Did you ever imagine yourself as a beauty baron?
[Laughs]. I’m not sure what a beauty baron is…
It’s like if you were to achieve Estée Lauder-level success.
If Le Domaine is successful, do we get baron status? Yeah, no, I didn’t [imagine that]. Landing here – at Château Miraval – opened up a lot of ideas that I wouldn’t have normally considered. And a big part of it is sustainability, this idea of zero waste is something that is really important to this area and important to me. But listen, when we first got here, I mean, I never thought about having a winery either! I just wanted a beautiful base in this area and it happened to have a winery. And it happened to be hemorrhaging tonnes of money. So we had to go to work. And then we went out on a search and found Marc [Perrin] and his family.
A clever idea. You majored in journalism, I’ve read..
I did, I didn’t graduate, but I did.
Do you wish you had followed that career path?
[Laughs]. I think I’m pretty happy with where things landed! I wouldn’t have objected to that, but I’m feeling alright about my day job.
How do you feel about film star-fronted business enterprises in general?
When I started out it seemed shameful to do a commercial, for some reason. You were called a sell-out. I really think the hip-hop guys changed all of that. They made it okay – even cool – to spread your wings a bit, to try some other things. And now it’s really exciting that you can, you know, explore other corners [of your creativity] like the old Renaissance artists in a way. And I love what Gwyneth’s done [with Goop]. She is still a really dear friend, and she has built this empire. She has always had that in her as a curator, and it’s been a lovely creative outlet for her. In fact, come to think about it, she was probably the first one who got me to even wash my face twice a day… maybe.
What pressures have you felt personally around ageing in the film business?
I don’t want to be running from ageing. It’s a concept we can’t escape, and I would like to see our culture embracing it a bit more, talking about it in those terms. Something we discussed [in founding Le Domaine] was this headline of “anti-ageing”. It’s ridiculous. It’s a fairytale. But what is real is treating your skin in a healthy manner. And it’s something I’ve learnt to do for my business, but it kinda makes you feel better. I grew up with a country mentality, kind of you know, Dial Soap once a day and then move on. And I think that we’re learning that if we love ourselves, if we treat ourselves a little better, then there are long lasting benefits to that. So just age healthy, age in a healthy manner.
Speaking of, I watched Benjamin Button last night. Was it strange to see yourself looking older in that role?
No, no, it wasn’t at all, I was kind of fascinated by it, really. And by the way? All those prosthetics, six hours of prosthetics? Tore up my skin. They destroyed my skin!
How and why is it important to you that Le Domaine’s approach is genderless?
Again, I don’t know if it’s just that I believe in being all-inclusive as much as possible? Or maybe it’s about us guys needing help from others in understanding how we can treat our skin better? I mean, I probably got more from my female partners in the past. We kept the smell very neutral, very fresh, and very, verysubtle. I mean, I’m the kind of person who will change hotel rooms if I can smell the cologne of the last person who stayed there! It’s too much! It’s too strong! Keep it subtle. Let people come to you. Don’t force it on others. That’s my feeling (laughs). For smells, I mean. I stand by that for smells!
Do you have any special memories of Miraval?
This past spring was special. We had a good five or six weeks out here. The stories you hear about Provence in the spring, why people come here. Well, it’s real. And I can’t quite describe it, other than the freshness in the air, the light, the… I don’t know, it’s just a real feeling of peace and harmony and the nights are so soothing. In summer you get the symphony of frogs, they lull you to sleep. I have a lot of artist friends from different disciplines, and they were here this spring, we were having a laugh. One was working on his music [at Studio Miraval], one was painting, one was designing a clothing line, and so on and so forth. They’d go off to their respective corners to work on their respective things, and then we’d come back here to cross-pollinate over a meal, or a game of petanques, in the spot we’re sitting in now. Making an artist community has always been the idea here, and it’s really nice to see that happen.
What’s the future looking like for you?
The older I get the more I think about quality of life, and time expenditure, and I sure would like to point it more in this direction. I think after lockdown it seemed to be on a lot of people’s minds, like, how are we spending our time, why are we grinding so much, what are we dedicating our lives to? And I think that family and friends at the end of the day is all that matters.
The GXVE Community lets consumers share make-up looks while benefitting from a commission rate that is above the industry average.
GXVE Beauty, the colour cosmetics brand of musician Gwen Stefani, has launched The GXVE Community, a digital platform that lets consumers share unique make-up looks.
It also allows users to benefit financially through a commission rate claimed to be above the industry average.
The former No Doubt frontwoman said The GXVE Community came from a desire to interact with make-up fans in the digital age in a way that was not available in the early years of her career.
GXVE Beauty specialises in ‘clean’, high performance make-up and launched in March this year, backed by New Theory Ventures.
“GXVE Beauty is the next chapter of my life,” said Stefani.
“It’s an extension of my passion for being creative, for finding identity and being artistic. Make-up gives you the freedom to play the roles you want to play.”
She continued: “I’ve dreamed about the day of launching The GXVE Community and now it’s here.”
“I wanted to partner up with the people who have been my partners all along. We’ve always had this exchange of love, whether it be through the music I’ve written or fashion and now beauty.”
“If you love make-up and you love to be your own individual, you’re going to love this community and I can’t wait to see what everyone creates.”
To apply to The GXVE Community, consumers can visit the ‘Ambassador Program’ at the GXVEBeauty.com site. Selected ambassadors, known as ‘GXVERS’, will be granted access to the proprietary brand platform.
The platform offers both discovery and financial incentives.
Those selected as GXVERS gain exclusive access to videos from Stefani, as well as product education, application tutorials, social content, product images and the ability to share and engage in brand polls and chats.
GXVERS also receive 30% commission on any items sold via their ambassador link, one of the highest standardised rates in the industry.
According to the brand, there is no minimum social media following required to become a ‘GXVER’, simply a passion for make-up and a positive outlook.
Isamaya Ffrench is sitting at an outside table at London’s The Maine, a stone throw’s from Vogue’s HQ. It’s a particularly sunny Spring day and everyone is full of cheer, which makes what she’s about to unveil that much more subversive. Taking its cues from the visual lexicon of BDSM culture – the lids of two serums and a mascara come skewered with wearable hard metal piercings, while a bound rubbery figure emerges from a 14 pan eyeshadow palette – Isamaya’s first make-up collection (the Industrial collection), for her brand new beauty brand, Isamaya, and its accompanying Steven Klein-lensed campaign, is as much a statement about the beauty industry as it is about beauty. Because Isamaya isn’t your typical beauty brand: it’s not selling you some repackaged notion of beauty in the traditional sense, nor is it relying on tired millennial tropes to appeal to a younger audience. It’s simply about providing the tools for people to express themselves in a way that’s incredibly freeing. “Everyone’s always banging on about make-up to transform yourself,” says Ffrench. “I’ve done the transformation thing, and I get it. But actually, I think make-up is a tool to return to who you are. And I think this collection could speak to people that can be more of their authentic self with this style of make-up, as opposed to like, a pretty girly blusher or something else.”
Welcome to Artist Spotlight #82 series on my blog.
But to focus on the visuals and underlying message alone would be to undermine what she’s managed to do in terms of the products. Because this is where the true ingenuity lies. A five-piece drop comprising a mascara, eyeshadow palette, glow serum, lip lacquer and brow laminator, Isamaya has worked tirelessly with her lab to create innovative textures and boundary-pushing formulas; a mascara that doesn’t just give you the effect of fuller lashes, but actually nourishes them to promote growth; an eyeshadow putty that melts with your body temperature to make it more blendable; a glow serum that doesn’t just contain pearlescent particles for a superficial dewiness, but also active ingredients that stimulate collagen production, creating a much deeper, more intense radiance. After years of lending her prowess to brands including Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin, Burberry – where she remains global beauty director – and Byredo, Isamaya is executing her unique vision of beauty on her own terms, and without any commercial shackles. The result is a lesson in unrestrained creativity that feels truly Isamaya. “I look at these products and I think, ‘That’s just so much more me than any other products I’ve ever seen in my life,’” she muses. “Maybe other people will be able to connect to it as well.”
Below, Vogue takes a closer look at the collection.
Industrial Skinlacq Triple Hyaluronic Glow Serum
A pearlescent lacquer for the face, but without any added sparkle, the Industrial Skinlacq Triple Hyaluronic Glow Serum is ideal for creating that glass skin look. Using a triple hyaluronic acid complex, along with cell-energising peptides, it also works to nourish and reinvigorate the skin, which was key for Isamaya. “I didn’t just want a glowy serum that doesn’t do anything else,” she says. “If I’m going to use this on my face every day, as the perfect base for my make-up, I wanted that first point of contact to be moisturising and moisture-locking.” Bottled up beautifully in a glass orb, replete with a pipette and hard metal piercing, it will bring an edge to any bathroom cabinet.
Industrial Rubberlash Latex Lift Mascara
A true example of make-up artistry and invention, the Industrial Rubberlash Latex Lift Mascara doesn’t just make your lashes look fuller and longer, it actually curls them too. “The lab created this mesh-like texture to encapsulate the lash,” Ffrench says. “It has this kind of elastic property that pulls the lashes back so you don’t need to curl your lashes.” Using three separate pigments, two black and one blue, to create an ultra black lash, it gives that coveted false lash impression, while conditioning oils nourish to encourage growth.
Industrial Liplacq Maximising Lip Serum
Described as a veil for the lips, the Industrial Liplacq Maximising Lip Serum uses a blend of coffee and ginger root oil to create a plumping effect, while its deep berry hue and almost inky texture add a sense of depth. This isn’t your average lip offering. “I wanted to create something that makes your lips a couple of shades darker because I think it’s quite sexy, quite goth,” she says. “I don’t want it to look like you’re wearing any product, though, it just deepens your natural tone with a kind of greyish, veiny tint.”
Industrial Browlacq Brow Laminator
A multi-use brow lacquer, apply one lick of this hard-wearing, hard-working gel to your brows and it will hold them in place from day to night and right through to the morning after. Perfect for styling or giving that laminating effect, it contains glycerin and humectants to nourish the hairs as well. “For all the drag queens out there, you can use this to stick your brows down and then cover with foundation, and then you have no brows,” she adds. It’s also good for kiss curls.
Industrial Colour Pigments Eyeshadow Palette
Taking inspiration from industrial hues – oil slick greys and chrome silvers – but with the odd flash of acidic colour, the 14 pan palette is a mix of special effect pearls, mattes, and press putties – demi-wet textures that activate at body temperature so they blend more easily. They look just as exquisite together as they do individually. There’s a particularly arresting violet that looks almost holographic on the skin. Isamaya recommends it for cooling down your highlights, while a silver pressed metallic gives a foil-like effect. “It’s all about the textures,” she says. “They look really interesting in different lights, and photograph really beautifully.”
Rose Inc is a vanguard brand founded by Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. It unites efficacy and ethics in formulas charged by proprietary bioengineered botanicals and safe synthetic ingredients.
Welcome to Artist Spotlight #72 series on my blog.
ROSIE HUNTINGTON-WHITELEY
Model-turned-founder and Chief Creative Officer Rosie Huntington-Whiteley refines her professional experience as a model and editor into a sharp, smart aesthetic that anticipates and executes what the modern individual wants in terms of cosmetics, formula and performance.
Her experience working daily with beauty professionals in makeup, skin and hair makes her an insightful and creative collaborator who prioritizes innovative clean ingredients, sustainable solutions and high-performance, non-comedogenic formulations.
BRAND VALUES
A brand founded on effortlessness and visible effectiveness. A brand that delivers clean formulas and clinically proven results. One that values the sensual and is committed to sustainability.
EFFECTIVE AND EFFORTLESS
Rose Inc takes a dual approach to beauty, delivering visible results while nourishing the skin. Each timeless product serves a distinct purpose — and often, many purposes — so navigating the options is simple.
Enriched with at least five skincare ingredients, each formula challenges clean stereotypes with saturated color, seamless formulas and visible luminosity. Delivering multiple benefits in one product, they free up space on shelves and in landfills while freeing up time with effortless, intuitive application.
CLEAN AND CLINICALLY PROVEN
Our strict guidelines minimize the impact across our supply chain, packaging and formulas, which undergo rigorous testing and demonstrate clinical results.
SENSUAL AND SUSTAINABLE
An indulgent experience and pore-friendly products have always seemed mutually exclusive. Rose Inc refuses to sacrifice one for the other. Each non-comedogenic formula is developed with an indulgent texture and luxury feel. But while we value form as well as function, when it comes to packaging our commitment is to sustainability.
There is a little-known right of passage for Angelenos that caught Jennifer Aniston off guard when she first started driving in Hollywood. “I got my first car, and someone said to me, ‘So, like, what’s the name of your car?’ And I was like, ‘What? You have to name your car in California?’” Nevertheless, Aniston obliged, dubbing her black Saab 900 Lola. “I always liked the song,” she says, referring to Sarah Vaughan’s version of “Whatever Lola Wants,” which has become something of a theme song for the Friends star. “Whenever I’d show up, my friends would say, ‘Lola’s here!’”
Welcome to Artist Spotlight #65 series on my blog.
Aniston has since leveraged the name in myriad ways, including in 2010 when she launched her debut fragrance, before quickly changing course and going with the more straightforward Jennifer Aniston for Women, which was eventually acquired by Elizabeth Arden. There were murmurs that copyright issues inspired the switch, but it’s also entirely possible that Aniston had bigger plans for LolaVie, which she loosely translates as “Lola’s life, my life”—an illustrious existence that has included superstardom, as well as some very smart business decisions, including this one: Today, LolaVie lives again, as the name of Aniston’s debut beauty brand.
Aniston has dabbled in beauty before, of course. She has transcended the more standard “brand ambassador” title to take on C-suite positions across a range of beauty and wellness categories (her newest role, as the chief creative officer of Vital Proteins, is the latest example of Aniston putting her considerable endorsement power behind a product she simply uses every day). But her own brand, which will be broad-ranging if trademark filings are any indication, will begin where her household fame left off: with her hair.
“This just felt pretty organic to me as my hair is something that has always been one of my struggles,” reveals the onetime owner of The Rachel, who refers to her own honey blond strands as “the Greek frappé on top of my head.” Years of washing and drying and curling and straightening and coloring, both in her personal and professional life, has left Aniston uniquely positioned to talk about damage—and reparative ingredients, of which she has tried many on a long road to hair health. While working with a different hair-care brand, Aniston got “the bug” for formulating, so when the opportunity to become a founder presented itself five years ago via Elizabeth Arden veterans and current LolaVie co-founders Joel Ronkin and Amy Sachs—to create hair products with natural, plant-based ingredients that still perform—Aniston needed little convincing.
LolaVie arrives this morning with a Glossing Detangler that swaps water, a filler ingredient that typically makes up 80 percent of hair-care products, with nourishing, sustainable bamboo essence. Lemon extract imparts “extraordinary shine,” per Aniston, and vegetable ceramides replace conditioning chemicals such as silicones, which can offer immediate gratification but often cause damage over time.
A detangler isn’t necessarily the first product you’d expect from a new hair-care brand, but one of LolaVie’s core principles is to launch products based on need—a hole in the market, or something that can be improved upon—rather than conform to predetermined retail schedules. And Aniston happens to need a good detangler. “I use detanglers all the time when I get out of the shower because of the condition of my hair; it’s hard to get through,” she reveals, adding that she wanted her detangler to be like “the Swiss Army knife of products: It’s a heat protector, it brings nutrients and health back to the hair follicle, it creates shine”—and it happens to be a great sign of what’s to come.
In November 2015, Kylie Jenner launched three lip kits. The kits, consisting of a lip pencil and liquid lipstick available in a pinky nude, a beige neutral and a deep brown, sold out almost immediately.
Jenner’s wasn’t the first celebrity beauty brand to launch. In 2009, Australian model Miranda Kerr founded Kora Organics, while actor Drew Barrymore launched Flower Cosmetics in 2013. But Jenner’s was the first to leverage the reach, engagement and influence of its founder in the social media era. Nearly six years later, the lip kits have evolved into a full makeup and skincare brand and in 2019, she sold 51 percent of her business (at a valuation of $1.2 billion) to Coty for $600 million.
The rise of celebrity beauty brands
Today, the legacy of Kylie Cosmetics—as well as Rihanna’s industry-changing Fenty Beauty, which launched in 2017—is everywhere, as celebrities jump on the beauty bandwagon. There’s Lady Gaga’s Haus Laboratories; Selena Gomez’s Rare Beauty; Kim Kardashian West’s KKW Beauty; Pharrell Williams’ Humanrace; Millie Bobby Brown’s Florence by Mills; Jennifer Lopez’s JLo Beauty; Halsey’s About-Face; Victoria Beckham; Paris Hilton’s Pro DNA, and many more.
Cardi B has teased a forthcoming makeup range, as has YouTuber James Charles, while Hailey Bieber, Gwen Stefani and Ariana Grande all reportedly filed trademarks for beauty products. Welcome to the golden age of the celebrity beauty brand.
It used to be that celebrities were the faces of beauty brands, starring in campaigns, endorsing the products in interviews and wearing the makeup on red carpets. But being the face is no longer enough—celebrities want ownership, becoming major players in the industry in their own right. And with the growth of the global beauty market over the last few years—the industry was valued at $532 billion in 2019—it’s not surprising.
“Celebrities are increasingly aware of the quick financial gains to be made, with the opportunity to monetize a loyal online fanbase and use their social media page as a marketing platform,” says Gabriella Beckwith, beauty consultant at market research firm Euromonitor.
But for everyone chasing a Fenty success story, fame and following alone won’t ensure sales. As the market becomes increasingly crowded, brands will have to rely on that notoriously slippery concept of authenticity to gain the trust and business of their target audience.
The power of authenticity
Today, beauty consumers have never been more educated about what they are putting on their face or more demanding about the quality. It’s why it matters that Pharrell Williams collaborated with his longtime dermatologist, Dr Elena Jones, for his skincare brand Humanrace. It’s why Halsey prefaced the announcement of her makeup brand About-Face in January by establishing her credibility. “Many of you know I’ve done my own makeup for a long time,” she wrote on Twitter. It’s also why actress Millie Bobby Brown drew criticism after posting a skincare tutorial in which she seemingly didn’t actually apply any of the products to her face. Brown issued an apology a few days later, writing, “I’m still learning the best way to share my routines as I get to know this space better—I’m not an expert.”
Eyebrows were also raised when Jennifer Lopez recently said that her age-defying skin was the mainly the result of years of olive oil use—despite selling a new line of skincare products (her multitasking serum costs $118). Followers were skeptical of these claims, with some even suggesting the singer had had Botox, to which Lopez responded: “For the 500 millionth time. I have never done Botox or any injectables or surgery!”
At the other end of the spectrum, Victoria Beckham established her credentials as a serious player by partnering with industry favorite Dr Augustinus Bader for her first skincare launch. “We tend to think of celebrity brands as inauthentic partnerships—traditionally, that is often what they were,” says Sarah Creal, co-founder and CEO of Victoria Beckham Beauty. “Celebrities can no longer slap their name on something and not have their communities realize that’s what’s happening. Those who are in it for the short term or inauthentically won’t last—consumers are savvy.”
A long-time beauty executive, Creal met Beckham at Estée Lauder, with whom the designer launched a capsule cosmetics collection, and was drawn to her passion and vision. While she says there is “no doubt” the former Spice Girl is a celebrity, they don’t consider Victoria Beckham Beauty a celebrity brand, but rather a bona fide indie startup. “Having Victoria as a partner obviously shines a light on the brand that we wouldn’t have otherwise, but we still have to stand up to the scrutiny and credibility that any new beauty brand would need to.”
The importance of quality over influence
Celebrities undeniably wield great influence over their following, but if they want to convince consumers to buy their products, this credibility and, most importantly, gold-standard quality, is non-negotiable. “People aren’t just buying into the face—they equally expect the product to work as hard as any other brand they’d engage with,” says Victoria Buchanan, senior futures analyst at strategic foresight consultancy The Future Laboratory.
The audience agrees. “[I think some] products by celebrities are bad quality because it is believed that people will buy them regardless,” says Marion, a 17-year-old gen-Z consumer from Toronto. “But the product itself should be more important than the celebrity or advertising.” It’s quality that she cites as the reason for buying the few products from celebrity brands that she’s purchased—a Rare Beauty highlighter with good reviews, a Fenty concealer because of its range of shades.
While a celebrity might make consumers aware of a brand (they’ll pay close attention if it’s someone they’re a fan of), it’s rare that they would buy a beauty product because of the name alone. On the whole, they remain wary of products, particularly when it comes to skincare, do their own research, and always listen to expert advice.
Like all trends, the celebrity beauty bubble will eventually burst. The sharp decline of celebrity fragrances following its 2011 peak shows what can happen when consumers move on from a category. Nothing lasts forever and we’ve already seen a gradual shift towards hair brands, such as Tracee Ellis Ross’s Pattern, Priyanka Chopra Jonas’s Anomaly, and sexual wellness products via Cara Delevingne and Dakota Johnson.
When that moment comes, those brands left standing will be the ones that have established their authenticity and credibility, played to the strengths of their creators’ personal ethos and identity, and, above all, proved their quality. As noisy and loud as your social media presence might be, in the end, nothing talks like results.
When celebs like Dua Lipa, Alexa Chung, and Kate Winslet want makeup looks that will standout on the red carpet, they all turn to renowned makeup artist Lisa Eldridge.
Welcome to Artist Spotlight #40 series on my blog.
But Eldridge’s influence doesn’t stop at her impressive client list. For over 20 years, she’s been the mastermind behind the makeup in the fashion campaigns of brands like Gucci and Prada, wrote a best-selling book, and was one of the fist professional makeup artists to embrace YouTube, with a number of her tutorials going viral.
In-between applying makeup, Eldridge has worked with a number of top beauty brands on product development, including Chanel and Shiseido, to name a few. Currently, she’s the global creative director of Lancôme. (You can thank her for the game-changing bendable Grandiôse Liquid Eyeliner.)
After years of crafting hero products for other brands, Eldridge launched her namesake makeup line in 2018 with a single product: lipstick.
The velvet-inspired matte formulas quickly became cult-favorites, and Eldridge has recently launched nourishing, but high-pigment lip glosses, which sold out also immediately.
Here, Eldridge shares the inspiration behind her own lip products, her tips for preventing your lipstick from smudging under a face mask, and more.
At what point in your career did you know you wanted to start your own brand?
I spent a long time working with labs and cosmetic scientists while consulting and developing for them. I really enjoyed doing it and all of the companies I was working with were very complimentary about how good I was with the scientists and putting everything all together. I had it in the back of my mind that I wanted to do it. However, I’m not a big planner and things usually happen organically for me, which is what happened with my lipsticks as well.
How did your experiences as a makeup artist shape your own brand?
I think I’m well-placed as someone who does tutorials, but also does makeup every day on different faces and skin tones. My experience of handling makeup and seeing makeup in motion gives me a double side.
Why did you decide to launch with lipsticks?
The funny thing about cosmetic science is that products can often take years to develop. While I have other things coming, some of which I’ve been working on for such a long time, the lipsticks just happened to be ready first. I had the idea to make this velvety lipstick, and we tried once before and it didn’t work. We finally found a way to get the lipsticks out of the mold and still look like velvet. It was a challenge, and I had to put a lot of quality control in place, with people checking every single bullet. I was 100% satisfied, so I was happy with launching it. Since it’s only me, I’m not under pressure to launch on a certain date or month, whether the product is ready or not, which is quite a luxury.
You recently came out with lip glosses. What was the inspiration behind this launch?
While my matte lipstick formula isn’t drying, I wanted to do something that was more moisturizing. I had the idea of creating a product that feels like a lip treatment, but still offers a lot of color. We tried different formulas and we were happy with this one, along with the colors. Sometimes things come quite quickly, and other times things will take years. And by quickly, I mean within 18 months.
This year has been weird for wearing lipstick, among many other things. Where do you see lipstick trends going in the time of COVID-19?
I planned to do lips again so I was a bit concerned about the face masks. But, lipstick has been just as popular as ever. There’s always that lipstick effect, which is a historically proven thing, where people like to cheer themselves up with a bold lip color. I thought people would stick to more natural colors, but my red shades have been super popular this year. Velvet Dragon, which is a new red shade, has just flown. A lot of people send me photos and videos showing me the lipstick they’re wearing under their masks. A lot of doctors and nurses wear my lipsticks. They show me they’re wearing a really bright red lipstick under all of their PPE. I think it’s like a secret thing that’s quite cheerful and brings a lot of joy.
What are your tips for preventing lipstick from getting on your face mask?
Stick to thin layers. When you put thin layers on, the lipstick will bond in synergy with the skin. Sometimes if you put a lot on from the bullet, there’s a certain amount that’s sitting on top of the skin. I always say to start with a thin layer — maybe with a lip brush — so that it almost settles in the creases on the lip. Then, put another thin layer on top and tap it in with your finger or blot it with a tissue. You’ll still feel the creaminess on the surface, but you won’t have any excess product available to come off.
What is a common mistake people make when applying lipstick?
The shape you make — especially with strong colors — is important unless you have completely balanced lips. For example, I have downturned lips, like a lot of people do, and if you follow your lips all the way down to the corners of the mouth, it tends to make you look miserable and sad. My tip is to roughly following your natural lips when you fill them in and just stand back and look into the mirror. Take a lip pencil and add a little bit of bulk or use a Q-tip to take a bit off one side, as needed. You’ll look like a different person. It’s a really subtle tweak, but you need to look at your lip shape and see what suits you.
Shop Lisa Eldridge’s Lip Products:
True Velvet Lip Colour in Velvet Ribbon
Inspired by a classic bow, this true neutral/blue red is highly pigmented with a matte finish that has a slight sheen to it. To sum it up: it’s a bold shine-free lipstick that won’t dry out your lips.
A rich berry is a gorgeous alternative to a red lip. This kit includes the True Velvet Lipstick, along with the coordinating Enhance and Define Beauty Liner, a creamy gel lip pencil, and Gloss Embrace Lip Gloss, a non-sticky formula that offers impressive color payoff while simultaneously nourishing the lips. The trio comes in a velvet floral pouch created by multimedia artist Jon Jacobson. It’s a great gift for the lipstick lover in your life, or you know, yourself.
This multitasking formula offers leaves lips smooth and soft, thanks to a blend of nourishing ingredients, while offering high-pigment color. Blush, along with the other five shades are currently sold out, but you can subscribe to Eldridge’s mailing list for restock alerts
What’s better than treating yourself to a single lipstick? Three new colors. This set comes with three blue-based shades of Eldridge’s True Velvet Lip Colour. There are also options available with warm undertones as well as bold and neutral.
Halsey is joining Rihanna, Selena Gomez, and Millie Bobbie Brown with the curation and launch of her very own beauty brand, About-Face. The award-winning artist has been hinting about her latest project for months through mysterious posts on social media. Now, all has finally been revealed.
Welcome to Artist Spotlight #38 series on my blog.
About-Face launched with three distinct franchises: Light Lock, Matte, and Shadowstick. The Light Lock assortment includes face highlighters with ultimate shine in stick, powder, fluid, and lip gloss form. The Matte range includes velvety finishes with products like the Paint-It Matte Lip Colors, Matte Fix Lip Pencils, and Fluid Eye Paint. Lastly, Shadowsticks are precise cream shadow crayons in soft pastel colors. The launch includes ten different products in an array of colors across each category. All About-Face products are vegan, cruelty-free, and formulated without gluten, phthalates, parabens, or synthetic fragrances.
Keeping to her vision of self-love, identity, and reflection, about-face is a creation of Ashley Frangipane (Halsey’s birth name), with the brand’s initials being a reflection of her own. The beauty brand focuses on a collection that is “For everyone, for everywhere, for every way with a dedication to products that are as edgy and non-conforming as the voice behind it,” according to the press release.
Serving as founder and Chief Creative Officer, Halsey has had her hands in every step of the curation and launch, even stating on Twitter that she did the makeup and photos for all the models during the campaign. So far, the campaign has featured people of various backgrounds and identities, emphasizing the theme of multi-dimensional makeup for everyone.
About-Face officially launched on January 25, 2021, on aboutface.com. The line includes affordable items that range from $14 to $32.
FACE
About-Face wants you to embrace your inner light with their face products that feature shimmery colors and pigments that will leave you “Straight Beaming!” Featuring products like the Matte Fix Spray ($28), the Light Lock Highlighting Fluid ($32), the Light Lock Powder ($30), and the Light Lock Stock ($25). Each Light Lock product includes at least three varying shades from light sheer to a deeper bronze.
Light Lock Powder
A crazy smooth highlighter powder that transforms for a glass-like finish.
Often one to rock a bold look, Halsey curated lip products with bold shade ranges that highlight a deep wine red, a matte burnt beige, a light pale pink, and more. Featuring products like the Light Lock Lip Gloss ($20), the Paint-it Matte Lip Color ($22), and the Matte Fix Lip Pencil ($17).
Paint-It Matte Lip Color
A flexible, matte liquid formula infused with natural peppermint with a powerful pigment load.
Currently, About-Face offers two eye products that provide a bold matte finish, a saturated matte look, or a pearlescent shimmer—featuring products like the Matte Fluid Eye Paint ($24) and the Shadowstick ($21). The smooth, buildable Matte Fluid Eye Paint pigment comes in six shades described as a “one-swipe color” that is smudge and budge-proof. The Shadowstick contains both matte and shimmery shades that can be used as eyeliner, eyeshadow, or truly whatever you choose.
Shadowstick
An insanely pigmented, one-stroke eye crème with a built in sharpener.
I’ll be honest: I’m highly skeptical when it comes to beauty brands founded by celebrities. But Selena Gomez has proven me wrong with her brand, Rare Beauty, and it’s now dropping a new spring collection.
The line features four brand-new Rare Beauty products: Stay Vulnerable Melting Blush, Stay Vulnerable Glossy Lip Balm, Stay Vulnerable Liquid Eye Shadow, and the Stay Vulnerable All-Over Eye Shadow Brush. With the exception of the brush, all of the products have the exact five-shade range with names that pretty much speak for themselves: Nearly Apricot, Nearly Rose, Nearly Neutral, Nearly Mauve, and Nearly Berry. In short: This collection is a makeup minimalist’s ultimate fantasy.
And thanks to the brand, Allure editors got to try the line before anyone else to give us the early reviews. Below, see a breakdown of the products, how they perform, and whether or not they’re worth backtracking on your New Year’s resolution to buy less stuff. Spoiler alert: They probably are.
Stay Vulnerable Melting Blush, $21
“I was biased the second I opened the retro-looking compact, but I have to hand it to this blush formula: Using the word “melting” in the name was a very intentional choice because that’s exactly what these blushes do upon touch. And that texture (combined with tons of pigment) is exactly what makes it so easy to apply either with fingers or a makeup brush.”
Thorne’s on the exact same page, even though cream blush isn’t exactly her thing. “I’ve recently gotten into cream blushes, but unfortunately some formulas are a bit too sheer for my brown skin,” she says. “These blushes didn’t come to play any games. They leave a healthy dose of pigment on the checks. I love how creamy and blendable they are.”
Stay Vulnerable Glossy Lip Balm, $18
Rare’s new lip products are a little mystical because you truly can’t limit them to one category. They have the nourishing quality and balmy consistency of a lip mask but they shine like a gloss — plus, they have just enough pigment to qualify as a lip tint. “Because they’re so simple and comfortable, I know they’re quickly going to become one of my go-to products for last-minute, Zoom-meeting makeup. The best part’, as Thorne will tell you, “is that anyone can wear any of these shades and get the same slight color and high shine.”
“The neutral and berry shades spoke to my soul the most, but I really liked the neutral shade because, despite the sheerness, its gorgeous caramel hue looked lovely on my lips with some brown liner,” Thorne says.
Stay Vulnerable Liquid Eye Shadow and All-Over Eye Shadow Brush, $20 and $15
Neither editors are frequent users of liquid eye shadows, but this formula is so easy to use it has convinced them to change their view. “The eye shadows are basically identical in shade to the blushes and glosses, but these are far thicker, creamier, and pigmented (as they should be). You get full-color payoff in one or two swipes; from there, you can let it dry down or blend it out to a subtle, sheer finish.”
And that’s where the All-Over Eye Shadow Brush comes in. It’s got a fluffy, tapered tip so application requires only two steps: Swipe some shadow all over the lid then wipe the brush lightly back and forth until it’s all blended out.
Kassy Rose Makeup Artistry 